Arriving in Lome
I have traveled to many countries over the years but I must
admit that approaching the airport in Lome, Togo was the most anxious I
probably ever have been as I would be
finally seeing my lovely daughter Jennifer for the first time in 15
months. Once clearing the bureaucracy of
the airport authorities (quite an adventure in itself) I got to hug my
Jennifer. It was a wonderful feeling for a very proud Dad. I think the only
thing that will top that is when I welcome her home.
My traditional role was reversed as Jennifer guided me
through the airport confusion shooing away hawkers until we got to the area
where the “bush taxis” were. It was fun for me to watch the surprised drivers when
they realized they were not dealing with two rubes from the USA. Me being the
only rube kept quiet as I watched the seasoned Peace Corps volunteer fight for
every last CFA (Togolese currency) for a ride to the hotel. I could not believe
my eyes as I watched the accumulation of 15 months worth of street smarts that
transformed my “formerly shy” kid into a confident outgoing woman. Wow!
We spent the night in a hotel that was close to the Peace
Corps office. Jen was trying to save me a few bucks as this was not exactly a 5
star hotel. Maybe a 0.5 star hotel but nevertheless it was an adventure and an
insight to a Peace Corps volunteers circumstances. The following morning we
ventured out onto the red dirt road and visited the Peace Corps office. Being
so close to Christmas there were few staff and only a couple of Jen’s fellow
volunteers. Everyone was most welcoming!
Aflao Border
Peace Corps Office Lome
Ghana Retreat
After we exchanged some money we headed to the Aflao border
crossing where we walked into Ghana. We hired a car to take us to a beach
resort I had reserved. We spent a few days where Jen got to enjoy hot baths,
great food, swimming, AC, TV, electricity, internet and a visit to the mall
complete with a movie, popcorn and some kind of froufrou coffee drink.
It was a pleasure seeing her so content. I am not sure how the rest of Ghana is
developed but Accra was quite nice. Jennifer kept forgetting and engaged people
in French although they speak English there. We talked for hours as there was
so much catching up to do.
Rest and Relaxation in Ghana
Asrama Bound
We spent several days in Asrama village, Jen’s home in Togo.
I visited the school and hospital she works at,
had a coke in her “buvette”, waved, and salulated her neighbors,
experienced the chaos of the market-place and traveled the paths my Peace Corps
Volunteer daughter walks every day, a small but enlightening (sometimes
frightening) glimpse of what Jen’s life is like as a villager. It was exciting,
and quite an insight in how rough these volunteers have it serving their
country this way. I could write paragraphs about all I saw and felt but I
thought I would concentrate on one day in Asrama, “Christmas 2012”.
Bing Crosby, Fufu,
Toofan and Snow Flakes
Christmas Day started with Jen playing Bing Crosby’s White
Christmas on her solar powered net book as she arranged the Christmas Crib on
her cluttered table. We exchanged gifts and headed out to Saint Therese of the
Little Flower Church, the biggest building around. We went to the early mass
that was in the local language of Adja. It was quite enjoyable watching all the
people wearing their colorful pagne clothes and listening to the drums as together
we celebrated Christ’s birth. They were used to seeing Jennifer by now but I
was quite the novelty and when it came time for the traditional hand shake I
shook them all. Jen had a traditional
shirt made for me in Christmas colors that matched her dress. Everyone thought
it was “cool” that I wore pagne!
We had spent some time with the chief of Asrama on Christmas
Eve where we exchanged stories about America, Africa and Jennifer. He expressed
to me how appreciative he and the people of Asrama are that
Jennifer was there. On his insistence we were to spend Christmas morning with
him. When we arrived we were escorted to a table where there was a Togolese
meal of fufu and a variety of other foods that I really didn’t know what to do
with; so I just followed Jen’s lead. Fufu
is a Togolese staple of pounded yams served with sauces. It couldn’t get any
fresher as I watched the women pound the yams with big wooden sticks just a few
feet away.
There were several local officials at the table that the
chief had invited for me to meet. After we ate he told them that they were
invited to witness a love a father has for a daughter. He explained how far I
had traveled to see Jen because of the value I placed in her. “We must place
the same value in our daughters” he said. I must admit I teared up as I
listened to these words through Jen’s translation. It was quite moving and I
understood about the wisdom that the chief had and why Jennifer admires him so
much. It was he who wanted a volunteer there specifically in girls education
and empowerment. He expressed how
pleased he was with Jennifer’s accomplishments. I had no idea that by my simple
presence would add to Jennifer’s work in Asrama.
After that we spent the day with Jennifer’s next door
neighbors, her homologue Akpo and her host family. They really are family in
that they look after Jennifer and make sure she is okay. She is their daughter
and they are her Mama and Papa. After meeting Adjo Titi and Boko Kami (Mama
and Papa) and their children, I truly sleep better at night knowing they are
next door to Jen. We didn’t communicate through words very well but it was
easily understood that we shared a common love for Jen. I now understand
what Jennifer means when she tells me
how much she learns from the villagers.
That night, Jennifer cooked an American meal for everyone
that consisted mainly of the many chickens that were gifted to us (a truly
magnificent gift in the Togolese culture). Papa and the girls killed and
cleaned the chickens. The whole neighborhood showed up and there was singing
and dancing late into the night. We learned traditional African dances and Jen
taught everyone the Macarena. I had brought a bunch of candy canes and it was
quite a hoot watching these festivities. Jen had a small Christmas tree lit
with battery lights out in the yard and we listened to festive African music
mainly consisting of Togolese pop star Toofan.
It was a wonderful day that was topped off by a late night
trip to the latrine and a cool bucket bath under the night sky. After stubbing
my toe and tripping over Jen’s faithful companion “Swarley” the dog I managed
to get under the mosquito net utilizing a solar light bulb. As I was drifting
off to sleep I could see the decorative snowflakes that Jennifer made and hung
all over the walls of her tiny house in preparation for my Christmas visit. The
snowflakes completed our day. It was a day better than Currier and Ives could
have imagined. For all the snow in Jen’s house man it was hot! I slept well.
Snowflakes Jen Made for Christmas
Mama and Papa
Well
Market
Church
Jen and I with the Chief of Asrama
Tree
Woman Pounding Fufu
Christmas Morning
Christmas Night
Travelling Through Togo and Beyond
From Asrama we went on to the regional capital Atakpame,
next to Kpalime and finally back to Lome. Along the journey utilizing various
modes of sketchy transportation on roads that looked like they were recently
carpet bombed we visited the regional
Peace Corps "maison" , learned how to make batik ( fabric with
colorful designs) with a local artisan, and best of all got to meet and talk to
other volunteers.
In Atakpame we met up with some close friends of Jen, Rebecca and David. We all made this trek together. It was great
being with them and experiencing Togo, "somewhat" volunteer style. I
say somewhat because we found hotels that had AC and hired bush taxis just for
us and several other luxuries volunteers can rarely afford to splurge on. It was during this part of the trip I saw some of the negative sides
of Togo which consists mainly of the
constant badgering of the female volunteers that range from unwanted attention
to downright rudeness. It was not prevalent in the village but most noticeable
during our travels. The female volunteers have many coping mechanisms and
handle it well but It certainly pissed
me off. Of course I was compelled to lecture Jennifer on these subjects that she
was sadly most familiar with.
In Lome, we
experienced the grand market got to meet with the Peace Corps staff and more
volunteers. We also spent some time and had a nice conversation with Miss Rose,
Jennifer's APCD. After that we flew out to
Tanzania and experienced a safari that was beyond words and best
expressed through pictures of which we took many. A safari in Tanzania should
be on everyone's bucket list.
Upon arrival back in Togo Jen and I spent one more day
together just hanging out anticipating my departure. Jen worked on a video
presentation for the kids at her old elementary school, Saint Mary's. A friend
of Jennifer's, Alphonse came down from Notse and we had a great lunch together.
It helped break up a tough day. Later on we parted at the airport and I headed back to the
states and Jennifer back to her village. It was a difficult good-bye but on the
bright side it was one more milestone until I will be at the airport again this
time me greeting Jen and helping her navigate her way in the USA.
Tanzanian Safari
Tanzanian Safari
Rebecca, Jen and David
Me Supervising Car Repairs
Making Batik
Tanzanian Safari
Tanzanian Safari
Impressions
1. Peace Corps volunteers demonstrate the best of the USA
for little monetary cost. 2. The sacrifice Peace Corps volunteers make for their country and Togo is significant.
3. Through Jennifer's immersion into the Togolese culture, the knowledge and understanding she and her colleagues will bring back is invaluable for our true understanding of the world.
4. Female volunteer's service is much more difficult than their male counterparts.
5. As a nation, we should appreciate their service more!
6. I would hire a volunteer because if they can handle this they can handle most anything.
7. Jennifer is my hero.
